Why is the Essex coast so often overlooked? Despite its proximity to London and its undeniable beauty, there seems to be something mundane and predictable about it. Nevertheless, when you step off the train at Shoeburyness, the final stop on the Fenchurch Street to coast railway, you immediately feel a sense of disorientation. Just a short walk away is a sprawling estuary foreshore with rocky outcrops under the expansive Essex sky.
On a windy Sunday, my partner and I take in the view at the beginning of our seven-mile coastal hike to the village of Old Leigh. To our left stretches a mile-long defence boom, built during the Second World War to block submarines from accessing the Thames. It is now protected as a historical monument. To our right is the former Shoebury garrison, which was established during the Crimean war in the 1850s and was once owned by the Ministry of Defence. As we stroll past its historic buildings, including the converted officers’ mess and the park with its grassy mounds that used to serve as air-raid shelters, we can’t help but feel a sense of history.
In the distance, we can already see Southend pier, but it still appears deceptively far away. The path leads us to Thorpe Esplanade, adorned with pastel-colored beach huts. As we reach the water’s edge, we spot numerous sanderlings and turnstones. A plaque informs us that the Thames estuary is home to a variety of migratory birds and wintering waterfowl. The light here is simply breathtaking, with rays of sun breaking through the clouds to illuminate the turquoise water.
As we continue our walk, the bustling suburb of Southend comes into view. The housing here is a mix of seafront mansions and Edwardian buildings, some more tasteful than others. We pass by the Roslin Beach hotel, which I’ve stayed at before, and resist the temptation to stop for a cocktail or lunch. Instead, we take a break halfway at the charming Dog & Co artisan cafe for coffee and carrot cake.
The path then becomes the traffic-heavy Southend promenade. On our left, boats rest in low-tide mud, while on our right, cars whiz by with their windows open and music blaring. We find ourselves absorbed in the frenzy of Southend, with its myriad attractions, from the sealife center and Mediterranean-style park to the flashing arcades with names like Monte Carlo or New York New York. It’s hard not to be drawn in by the energy of the place.
Southend pier dominates this section of the coast. As the longest pleasure pier in the world, it stretches for 1.34 miles and offers a variety of amusements, including a big wheel and Adventure Island rides. Opposite the pier is Twenty One, a relatively new arts space and cafe that provides a welcome respite from the crowds.
Walking along Western Esplanade, we pass the elegant Regency terrace and make our way towards the Cliffs Pavilion theatre, passing by seafront cafes and restaurants. Chalkwell beach is home to the Crowstone, a stone pillar that marked the seaward limit of the City of London’s jurisdiction over the River Thames until 1857.
As the afternoon progresses, the light casts a shimmering glow on the watery pools. The path narrows alongside the Essex Yacht Club, with mastheads rattling in the breeze. We finally arrive at Old Leigh, the oldest part of Leigh-on-Sea, perched on a steep hill. The cobbled streets are lined with cottages and clapboard buildings, many of which have been converted into bars and restaurants. The smell of seafood stalls fills the air, and we eagerly stop for a pint at the charming Ye Olde Smack, enjoying the view over the creek from its rear terrace.
For accommodation in Old Leigh, Airbnb options are plentiful. However, if you’re looking for an independent boutique hotel, Hamiltons in central Southend is worth considering. Situated on the Regency parade known as Royal Terrace, it was fully restored in 2007 and offers six rooms. The balcony suite, with its wrought-iron veranda overlooking the park, promenade, and estuary, is a particular highlight.
The Essex coast may be underrated, but those who take the time to explore its charms will be richly rewarded.