Black smoke is billowing from the front of the bus as I continue my five-hour journey from Tirana to Sarandë in Albania. The lack of air-conditioning, except for the occasional breeze created by a folded map, is making the uncomfortable situation even worse. It’s unclear whether the engine has exploded, but judging by the groans of the driver and passengers, it’s far from ideal.
Unfortunately, incidents like these are common when traveling in Albania. Buses and car rentals are the main modes of transportation, as only Tirana and Kukës have international flight access. This makes the mid and south regions of Albania difficult to reach without a bus or car. However, the transportation landscape in Albania is changing.
In April 2024, Vlora international airport is set to open, and Ryanair has announced 17 new routes to Tirana, including flights from Stansted and Manchester. This expansion is welcomed by the tourism sector, as previously the budget option was taking buses from Montenegro to reach Tirana. The new airport will allow travelers to fly directly to Albania’s coastline on the Adriatic Sea, potentially boosting development and tourism revenue. However, there are concerns regarding sustainability.
Taulant Bino, representing the Albanian Ornithological Society, is one of the organizations involved in a lawsuit against the construction of the airport. Their aim is to protect important conservation areas, and they have noticed a pattern of exploitation of state-owned protected areas, especially in coastal regions. The proximity of Vlora airport to Narta lagoon, a renowned bird habitat with thousands of flamingos, is a significant concern. There are questions raised about whether the airport even has a valid construction permit.
Bino argues that Vlora airport doesn’t make sense, especially considering the close proximity of Tirana airport. He suggests exploring other proposals instead. Annette Spangenberg from Euronatur, a European nonprofit conservation foundation, supports Bino’s concerns and questions why a fast-train option from Tirana airport was not considered since they are only two hours apart by car. She also warns about the current boom in hotel resorts along the coast, which may not be sustainable in the long run.
The prime minister, Edi Rama, is a strong supporter of the Vlora airport project, and hopes it will lead to significant tourism growth. While the benefits are clear, there is a debate about the potential cost. There is a risk that the airport may contribute to an unsustainable resort bubble that fails to attract tourists to inland destinations.
For travelers who want to make a positive impact on Albania, Spangenberg advises seeking out small-scale, local tourism offerings. She encourages curiosity and exploring the country with open eyes. For those who have the time, ferry crossings and buses remain options for slower travel in Albania. Bino also advises avoiding large, sprawling developments in protected areas, as they have negative impacts on nature and may not provide long-term benefits for tourists.