In the dining room of the Wasdale Head Inn, Leo Houlding, an explorer and climber, examines the walls, reflecting on the origins of mountain adventure as a sport. On a shelf, there are old hobnail boots, ice axes, canvas haversacks, and black-and-white photographs of the pioneers who first thought that scaling rock faces and mountains might be enjoyable. Leo marvels at the archaic equipment and shares his admiration with his two children, Freya and Jackson. Despite conquering some of the most remote and challenging rock walls on Earth, Leo finds the achievements of these pioneers amazing since they didn’t have modern gear like climbing shoes.
Leo, Freya, Jackson, and I have decided to tackle a classic route – the 18-meter Napes Needle. This igneous rock formation extends from the steep sides of Great Gable above Wasdale and was climbed by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in 1886. When a photograph of someone atop the pillar was displayed in a London shop window, it caused quite a stir, inspiring generations of climbers. Leo, in many ways, embodies the modern equivalent of these pioneers and is an inspiration to anyone seeking adventure. His new book, Closer to the Edge, chronicles his daring exploits.
The pioneers of old had realized that adventure could be found close to home and that it was beneficial for one’s well-being. I’m hoping to find new challenges within the UK, not limited to just climbing. I want to explore kayaking, scrambling, walking, and swimming as well. To find inspiration, I will look to pioneers like Haskett Smith and books like Classic Rock by Ken Wilson, as well as more recent publications such as the Wild guides. Each of the four areas in the country will offer unique experiences and ideas.
Before starting the climb, I decide to take an adventurous route into the Lakes, walking across the shifting sands of Morecambe Bay. This area, covering 120 square miles, has claimed numerous lives throughout the years. However, with the help of a guide named Michael Wilson, a local fisherman, it is possible to cross the treacherous tidal flats from Arnside to Grange-over-Sands. I am joined on this journey by Ali Pretty, who is leading a creative project celebrating the coastline, pathways, and stories of Morecambe Bay called Bay Lines – Beach of Dreams.
We wade through thigh-deep channels, encountering flatfish along the way. The sand beneath us varies, bouncing in some places and sinking a little in others. Arriving at Arnside, I am surprised to see around 500 people waiting for Michael, who delivers a safety briefing through a loudspeaker. He informs us that if anyone gets stuck, we should leave them behind, as the tractors will come to their rescue. It turns out that these tractors are Michael’s “boats” since he uses them for fishing by leaving nets out overnight and checking them when the tide recedes. His expertise on the treacherous sands and unpredictable movements make him the perfect guide.
We set off along the coast and then across the sands, following pre-planted branches that act as markers. It can be dangerous, as we have to cross three water channels that are constantly changing. Michael points out that one of the channels is starting to cut a deeper path, which may pose future problems, but not today.
The role of a guide in this area dates back to the 16th century when they safely escorted monks across the sands to Cartmel Priory, bypassing the lawless mountain route. The guides tend to stay in their positions for many years. Michael is only the 26th guide, and his predecessor, Cedric Robinson, served for 56 years. Being a fisherman who knows every corner of the bay, Michael was a natural choice for the job.
After the walk, it’s time for the climb. Leo Houlding and his wife, Jess, are experts at keeping children motivated and engaged during the climb. They play games and tell stories, saving the chocolate for later. As we walk towards Napes Needle on a scorching hot day, the climbers’ path becomes more hands-on, and the children become fully immersed in the adventure. Hill walking may be boring, but once climbing begins, it becomes much more exciting.
Leo is right. The Traverse of Great Gable, which we take to reach Napes Needle, involves scrambling and offers breathtaking panoramic views. While the needle itself is not considered a difficult climb nowadays, it still requires considerable experience to lead. However, it is possible to follow with a qualified guide. The route has been climbed so many times that certain sections of the rock are as smooth as a kitchen worktop.
On the summit, Leo sets up ropes for others while I enjoy the views down Wasdale. Getting down is a bit trickier, and I descend with Leo’s assistance. Freya and Jackson carefully make their way up, with Jackson even devising a new, more challenging route while talking non-stop. After everyone is safely down, the Houlding family adds another element of risk to the adventure by running down the scree slope to the valley.
After a day of climbing and hiking, I seek the refreshing embrace of Wastwater for a cold swim. I make my way along the north shore and find solace in the cool water, surrounded by the beauty of nature, with Great Gable in the distance.