Malverleys is a heavenly place to be on a warm summer’s day. The country lanes of Wessex Downs lead to beautifully maintained nurseries, lawns, and flowerbeds, accompanied by a charming restaurant, deli, cafe, farm, gift shop, and lecture room. It’s like stepping into a quintessentially English farm-to-table experience straight out of a storybook, with the Famous Five inviting Peter Rabbit and Mrs Tiggy-winkle to tend to the cottage garden. When the sun is shining, visitors can leisurely stroll through the garden, participate in a “hand-tied bouquet workshop,” purchase fresh runner beans from the plots, and enjoy a rhubarb and magnolia danish pastry on the terrace.
However, on the day I visited Malverleys, it was raining heavily during one of the summer downpours in 2023. The sky was a muddy color, and thunder could be heard in the distance. Despite the weather, customers bravely ventured out onto the damp terrace, some donning makeshift hats made from plastic bags, determined not to let a little rain spoil their day. I couldn’t help but feel that this was a truly English experience. People had planned their visit to Malverleys and were determined to enjoy themselves, regardless of the conditions.
The gift shop at Malverleys was filled with tempting items, including jars of Freda’s Cornish sea salt peanut butter and 100% Al Qadarif sesame tahini, as well as bohemian Thunders Love recycled cotton socks, hand-whittled serving spoons, and the housemade hand soap. I longed to be the type of woman who attended watercolor classes in farm shops, learning to create Japanese-style botanical scenes, and indulging in artisanal ceramics and organic globe artichokes. At Malverleys, even if only for a brief moment, I could be that woman.
The shop and deli area, with its communal benches, leads to the more formal restaurant. Chef Hugo Harrison serves a short, set-lunch menu from Thursday to Sunday, consisting of locally sourced and homemade dishes. The menu offers a choice of two courses for £25 or three courses for £30, with the option to add two extra dishes for £5 each. The portions were not particularly large, so the additional dishes were necessary if one was hungry.
Despite the limited options, the food at Malverleys was delightful. The meal began with freshly baked sourdough bread and salted butter. As non-pork eaters, we had the brawn substituted with fresh ricotta and pickled beetroot and carrot, which was delicious. The house pickles were sharp and crunchy. The panisse, or chickpea chips, were served with a lovage sauce, while the extra starter course consisted of British bresaola. Everything was fresh and beautifully sourced, but it was evident that the portions would not be substantial, even with the additional courses.
The main course consisted of fresh maltagliati pasta with a sauce made from honey-sweet Coolea cheese and sautéed chard. The addition of dressed lettuce leaves added a colorful touch to the plate. For dessert, we enjoyed meringue with strawberries and cream, which was a delightful twist on the classic Eton mess. The meringue, flavored with cherry blossom, was exquisite. It was the first time I truly appreciated a meringue, as it was fresh, chewy, and not overly sweet. The bill, including soft drinks, came to £80 before service charge, which I happily added due to the enjoyable dining experience.
Malverleys is still in its early stages but shows potential to become a top-class restaurant that offers delicious food made from affordable ingredients such as pickles, pasta, and lettuce, though in small quantities. Despite this, it remains an alluring destination for a countryside outing, where one can browse the shop, daydream about growing their own vegetables, and savor a meaningful but brief meal. On the way home, I indulged in my emergency car Mars bar, but my feet were comforted by the finest recycled cotton socks.