Can a culture become a fashion trend? In this post-Brexit world, designers both British and not are leaning into British style. Naturally Daniel Lee’s tenure at Burberry has been about exploring the brand’s roots. “I don’t know if this is the right way to say this,” he told Vogue, “but more than surprising people, I really would like them to see the new vision and feel reassured—like, ‘Oh, yeah, this makes sense: This is what Burberry should be.’” And then there’s Chanel’s Virigine Viard, who brought the house’s Metiers d’Art show to Manchester, where she treated her guests to a Manchester United v Chelsea football (err, soccer) game and staged her show on the street with pub-style seating.
During the fall 2024 shows that just wrapped up in New York, American designers took up flag for Britishness. Willy Chavarria borrowed its plaids and houndstooths and juxtaposed them against nods to Western and Chicano all-American fashion. Anna Sui’s approach was a little more whimsical, looking at Agatha Christie and her beloved Miss Marple character (with a side of Virginia Woolf) and merging it with her own ’90s grunge references. There was also an air of Britishness to Joseph Altuzarra’s 15th anniversary collection, his more rooted in the countryside with an off-duty equestrian flare. This he shared with Nili Lotan and Veronica Beard, who made all-American riffs on Barbour-esque barn jackets and Fair Isle knits.
Ahead of London Fashion Week, scroll through to see how American designers took on Bri’ishness and British style this season.
Barbour-esque: Ready for Balmoral