From the traditional world of kimonos to his family business and his brand Yoshikimono, founded in 2011, Japanese composer, pianist and rockstar Yoshiki has now embarked on a new fashion journey, called Maison Yoshiki. At the very beginning of Milan Fashion Week, he debuted the first collection of his newly launched brand through which he can freely express his vision, mostly based on a genderless aesthetic with a more international approach. The switch from the traditional and embroidered fabrics of kimonos he presented throughout the years at Tokyo Fashion Week was strongly evident, bending towards an all-black collection with elements of asymmetry, rigor and an alternation of hardcore and rock’n’roll details.
Yoshiki’s decision to show the first collection of his new label in Milan came in part from the fascination that a classically trained composer can feel being in one of the birthplaces of classical music. He played one of his custom Kawai pianos made of crystal during the show, performing “Nessun dorma” from Puccini’s opera Turandot and a new song in collaboration with musician Hiroshi Fujiwara—yes, the founder of Fragment.
Maison Yoshiki’s starting point is a women’s ready-to-wear collection with intermissions of genderless pieces. Going forward, the plan is to make it a lifestyle brand offering as many options as possible to convey the wide vision of its founder. A concrete example of this was the different collaborations already present in the fall collection, such as the futuristic sneakers developed with Japanese brand Grounds, and the hardcore-inspired jewelry pieces that recalled an alien spine, which bore the signature of Archived Prototypes, brand run by Mara Grigoriu and Yusuke Hotchi.
Overall, the collection juxtaposed more everyday ready-to-wear pieces, like the denim separates decorated with a subtle touch of red paint à la Pollock, with theatrical creations—elongated silhouettes with rich trains appeared, silky gowns, sometimes in sequins and lurex. Glamour and drama coexisted well in this solid debut.