Despite having only a debut collection under his belt, Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini seems pretty clearheaded about the direction he wants the label to go. “I’m a pragmatist,“ he said at a showroom appointment. He wants his designs to fit the purpose of an IRL wardrobe, and because Tod’s isn’t a brand for the fashion obsessed, the pairing seems to be born out of mutual understanding. After seven years at Bottega Veneta, Tamburini’s expertise is solid; Bottega’s take on daywear hasn’t been exactly conventional, so we might expect practicality spiked with some edge. But for now, he is keeping a low profile, “cleaning the slate, working on subtraction and not on addition; then we’ll build from there, adding layers as we go along.”
Resort pivoted on streamlined outerwear, slightly oversize to hint both at comfort and presence, casual in attitude yet rather stringent in design; the only nod to softness was the use of fine wools and smooth-as-cashmere nappa leather and suede. Maxi trenchcoats in thermo-sealed bonded canvas, slightly military-inspired, were a standout; an attractive version was a two-in-one leather mackintosh, where two superimposed and detachable dusters could be worn separately. Elsewhere, the field jacket, a Tod’s staple, was made into a sleeveless belted midi dress, and suede overshirts were paired with elongated trousers, signaling Tamburini’s proclivity for a play on contrasting urban, polished silhouettes.