In urban centres like Gurugram and Bengaluru, where the influence of global culture is strong, traditional garments such as the sari and dhoti often seem out of place.To many, these incidents may seem like minor inconveniences or misunderstandings, but they actually reflect a larger issue about our collective identity and how we view our traditions.
The discomfort with tradition
For some modern Indians, traditional attire feels out of sync with contemporary lifestyles. As cities rapidly modernize and global fashion trends dominate, garments like the sari and dhoti are sometimes seen as old-fashioned or impractical for daily wear. In a world that constantly moves forward, traditional clothing can seem like an awkward relic of the past.
This is not just about personal preference but about broader societal attitudes. The sari and dhoti, deeply embedded in our culture and history, are often relegated to special occasions or traditional settings. In a world where modernity is associated with progress and sophistication, these garments sometimes seem at odds with the image of a ‘global citizen.’
Ashish Dhaka, an Adjunct Professor and Fashion Designer at Pearl Academy, reflects on this disconnect: “Clothing is an extension of our personality. The colonised thought process of considering traditional garb as uncultured and barbaric has changed largely within fashion’s ecosystem. However, the so-called Indian wear is limited to ceremonies. I have seen a sudden surge in sales of men’s Kurtas during Diwali each year. It is difficult to decipher what connotations the word ‘INDIAN CLOTHING’ carries. Sari and Dhoti are both such forgiving and adaptable garments that work for tropical weather like ours and carry a legacy of our rich textile traditions. The draping styles are so versatile and are not just dependent on demographics but also the activities that one would carry out in them. Decolonisation has started to prosper in some sections of our society and people are more open to expressing themselves, especially with how they dress. But at the same time, these choices and preferences are primarily consumed through handheld devices and people are constantly overstimulated to dress the way they do. The digital content is unable to create aspiration in people to wear Indian clothes.”
Cultural pride vs. global aspirations
The term ‘woke’ often describes a heightened awareness of social issues. Yet, in India, this concept sometimes overlooks the importance of cultural pride. Being truly woke should involve celebrating and integrating one’s heritage with a global perspective. Unfortunately, for many Westernized Indians, aligning with international fashion trends often takes precedence over embracing traditional attire.
This divide is particularly evident in how traditional garments are perceived. The sari, with its elegance and rich history, and the dhoti, representing traditional masculinity, are frequently dismissed as unsuitable for everyday life. This perception reflects a broader issue where Western norms are prioritized, leaving our traditional attire undervalued.
Shweta Navandar, an Associate Professor of Fashion Communication at Pearl Academy, points out the gap in cultural representation: “I feel our culture or heritage lacks positive representation and reinforcement through education, media, or public discourse. Therefore, people are not able to fully develop a strong sense of pride in it. There is a gap that needs to be addressed to make cultural attire relevant in diverse settings and on various platforms. For instance, the dhoti is often perceived as rural or associated with a specific group of people and deemed suitable only for festive occasions. This perception persists even though previous generations, like our grandfathers, wore mul cotton dhotis daily. Similarly, the sari, although it has evolved in various styles and fabrics, still faces stigma, especially when worn by senior women. It’s sad but a large part of our society tends to judge clothing based on age, whereas the same outfit might be celebrated if worn by a younger person, such as a Gen-Z individual at any event or a college fest.”
The globalization paradox
Globalization has brought about remarkable opportunities for cultural exchange, but it also presents a paradox: global influences are often celebrated, while local traditions can be sidelined. This paradox is evident in how traditional Indian garments are perceived. While Western fashion trends are embraced, traditional attire is sometimes pushed to the periphery.
For those who adopt Western lifestyles, traditional garments might seem less sophisticated or relevant. This attitude can lead to situations where wearing such attire results in exclusion or mockery. It’s not just about individual choice but reflects a broader cultural shift that places global trends above local traditions.
Reclaiming cultural identity
Reclaiming cultural identity involves more than just acknowledging traditional garments; it requires integrating these elements into everyday life. It means appreciating the historical and cultural significance of the sari and dhoti and celebrating them as vital parts of our heritage.
Urban environments should be places where cultural diversity is celebrated, not dismissed. The notion that one must conform to specific fashion standards to fit into modern settings is both limiting and exclusionary. Embracing traditional garments as part of contemporary fashion can bridge the gap between tradition and modernity.
The way forward
Addressing these issues requires a shift in both perception and practice. Educational efforts to raise awareness about the cultural significance of traditional attire can help foster appreciation. Fashion designers and influencers also play a crucial role in incorporating traditional elements into modern fashion, making them appealing to a broader audience.
Creating spaces where traditional garments are celebrated, rather than excluded, is essential for nurturing a more inclusive and culturally aware society. As urban Indians navigate the intersection of tradition and modernity, it is crucial to foster an environment where cultural pride is both acknowledged and celebrated.
The struggle to embrace traditional garments in contemporary settings highlights a broader issue of cultural disconnect. As India continues to grow and evolve, it is vital for its people to balance global influences with cultural heritage. By doing so, we can ensure that our traditions are preserved and celebrated, rather than overshadowed by the pursuit of modernity.