Maja Dixdotter’s fall collection for By Malene Birger is her most luxurious in terms of materials and texture. This is clear from the opening look, a reversible shearling jacket with a pom-pom zipper pull paired with an angora midi skirt. Softness is the message here, and comfort. It’s delivered through cashmere knits, mahogany-colored velvet, and a faux fur coat of epic, Edward Gorey proportions. A bird’s eye tweed, cut into both a cape-sleeved coat and a skirt suit with an asymmetric swag adds a firmer hand. The collection speaks to all aspects of an active woman’s life with work-ready and going-out options. There are statement-making pieces as well as at-home looks such as a flower-printed ribbed base layer set and a slip dress with a charming tuck that creates a drape at the hem.
Dixdotter seems less in thrall to the vie boheme than she was when she joined the company in 2021; the pieces that hew closest to that, such as a raw silk pajama set, feel a bit apart. Still, this is a deeply nuanced collection that carries with it the sweet smell of success. As it should be: Having been mesmerized by a rare fragrance she came across by chance, the designer built the collection around the idea of top, heart, and base notes. Perfume is well known to be a powerful conduit for evoking the past, and this collection contains its déjà vu moment: The coat in the final look, cinched with a flower belt, is worn by the model who appeared in Dixdotter’s first collection which included the same coat in a different color. “It felt really strong to be able to do that again,” she said.