Demna’s provocation had more to do with time. By closing his show with a piece of “ephemeral couture” made minutes before the show (and which “will come with three Balenciaga staffers for its assembly for the client who buys it,”) he suggested that the value of a couture creation is related to the hours of handwork that went into its making. (His layering technique also hewed close to the 2018 Vetements windows featuring piles of clothes.)
Plentitude took the form of pearls at Armani Privé, where they were applied with painstaking care, and often paired with pants that looked like molten metal. Mingling with the week’s more traditional prettiness were reminders that even the .001% can’t wholly avoid what is happening in the world. Protective shields were seen in various collections. There was a Cubist-like skewing of silhouettes at Viktor & Rolf and elsewhere as well as a feeling of clothes falling away from the body.
The dream of escape was present in the references to birds, which more broadly equate freedom with movement. This was built into clothes that torqued around the body or whose angular extensions seemed unsusceptible to gravity.
Gym Class
Tanks, track suits, leotards, and bathing suits swam upstream into couture collections.
Gymnasts, circa 1933.
Photo: ullstein bild Dtl./Getty Images
The leotard: Chanel, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Giambattista Valli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Elie Saab, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Aretha Franklin and choreographer Charlie Atkins, 1961.
Photo: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
Cyd Charisse, circa 1955.
Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images
Zuhair Murad, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Rahul Mishra, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
The swimsuit: Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
The swimsuit: Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
The track suit: Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
The track suit: Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
The track suit: Chanel, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
What Lies Beneath
Designers move beyond naked dressing to the endoskeleton.
Zuhair Murad, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Roberty Wun, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Charles de Vilmorin, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Off-Kilter
Garments that reveal their making or seem to cling tenuously to the body are evidence of designer’s interest in deconstruction.
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Robert Wun, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Zuhair Murad, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Robert Wun, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Alexis Mabille, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Zuhair Murad, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Legs for Days
Pants looked easy, mobile, and modern.
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Chanel, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
A Paul Poiret lampshade design from 1923.
Photo: Roger Viollet/Getty Images
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Micro Management
The magic of couture is often made visible through beadwork and embroidery.
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
Ashi Studio, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Flight Patterns
Fashion can be a way to escape (by wing or foot, or private plane) to another place or time.
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Chanel, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Charles de Vilmorin, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Giambattista Valli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Iris van Herpen, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
A Lanvin dress on display at the 1938 World’s Fair.
Photo: Lipnitzki/Getty Images
Shield Gang
There is a protective aspect to some couture garments for fall.
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Find Your Best Angle
The naked dress, seen from a sharp angle.
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Bodacious Side Eye
The Cubists’ altered vision seems to have influenced designers.
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Ashi Studio, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
Rahul Mishra, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Juan Gris, Untitled.
Photo: Barney Burstein/Getty Images
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Rahul Mishra, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Only Happy When It Rains…
…rains diamonds and rubies and pearls, that is.
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Elie Saab, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Alexis Mabille, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Ashi Studio, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Ghoul Oriented
Finally, there’s room for emo clients, and Evanescence fans, at couture.
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Charles de Vilmorin, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Zuhair Murad, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Charles de Vilmorin, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Avoir du…chat?
Avor du chien is a french expression meaning to possess chic, but this season’s focus was on cats.
Alexis Mabille, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Armani Privé, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Transformations
This season included witty takes on the possibilities fashion offers for change.
Shoe hat bu Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937.
Photo: Ullstein bild via Getty Images
Schiaparelli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Poster for the French National Railroads by Salvador Dali, 1969.
Photo: Potter and Potter Auctions/Gado/Getty Images
Balenciaga, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
Robert Wun, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Fleet of Foot
They’re built for speed and easy on the eyes.
Giambattista Valli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: C. Scarpato – A. Viero / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Big-Impact Bridal
For your special day, a dress that speaks volumes.
Charles de Vilmorin, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Chanel, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Thom Browne, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
Giambattista Valli, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Julie se Libran, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Rahul Mishra, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Elie Saab, fall 2024 couture
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Nicolas di Felice for Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2024 couture
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