GmbH Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

GmbH’s spring lineup was called “Kurban” from the Turkish for sacrifice, which comes from Latin’s “sacer” or holy: The collection was full of spiritual references. It also aimed to employ fashion as a tool of protection. “Working in fashion is very sacrificial in a way,” said designers Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik. The collection, made after a rough time for the duo, reflected a need to shield people from unexpected events.

Although the choice of colors was toned down to mostly black and white, there wasn’t anything inherently dark about it. “These are the colors that us and our community mostly wear,” said the designers. Cut outs and couture volumes alternated; drapes and capes cohabitated. On shirts and dresses, Arabic letters came to life, referencing protective spells, phrases like “safe from harm” and rituals both contemporary and traditional, something very important for the designers.

On the accessories front there were the same over-knee boots in (transparent) organza as in their menswear. Mules were extruded from cowboy boots, wiping the back out, and made of black vegan leather or decorated with fake feathers. Real leather is something the brand doesn’t employ, favoring recycled synthetic water-based materials or apple waste at the core of their bags.

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