The models featured in the campaign for Goldwin and Spiber’s offerings are seen in sleek, monochrome outfits, sporting modern silhouettes and broody expressions. They mystically glide their hands and smolder at the camera, while interspersed images of icebergs create a visually captivating experience.
This fashion campaign may seem like any other, but upon closer inspection, you’ll find descriptions of “brewed” materials that offer a hint into its unique qualities. The partnership between Goldwin, a sportswear brand, and Spiber, a biotech company based in Yamagata Prefecture, is just one example of collaborations between the fashion and biotechnology sectors with the aim of reducing the industry’s significant environmental impact.
Scientists and pioneers in fashion technology are increasingly turning to nature for inspiration on how to develop materials that are easily degradable and reusable, thus mitigating environmental harm. They are exploring various methods, such as using yeast and bacteria to color fabric, creating lab-grown fibers derived from algae, and drawing inspiration from the intricate patterns and proteins found in organic materials like mushrooms and spiderwebs. Even those well-versed in cutting-edge technology find wonder in these natural sources.
The fashion industry is under mounting pressure to innovate and find sustainable alternatives to minimize its environmental impact. Even pattern-cutting techniques have become more strategic as designers aim to reduce cumulative wastage. The staggering statistics from the U.N. Environment Programme and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation highlight the urgent need for change. Around 20% of global wastewater comes from fabric dyeing and treatment, and the fashion industry uses a staggering 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, accounting for 4% of global freshwater withdrawal.
In addition to water consumption, the fashion industry’s emissions contribute to climate change. Estimates vary, with the Apparel Impact Institute putting the figure at 2% of global annual emissions, while the UNEP and Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimate it to be around 10%. This puts fashion’s impact above that of international flights and maritime shipping combined. Plastic-based fibers like nylon, acrylic, and polyester not only contribute to emissions during production but also contribute to the growing microfiber plastics issue in oceans.
In an effort to combat these challenges, companies like Spiber are working towards alternative solutions. Spiber, a rare “unicorn” startup in Japan, produces spun materials similar to cashmere using lab-grown and plant-based fibers that undergo a microbial fermentation process, or “brewing.” This process was initially inspired by spiderwebs, with the company analyzing spider DNA to replicate the silk genes. However, it was discovered that garments made from spider silk protein shrunk dramatically, leading to the development of Spiber’s Brewed Protein.
According to Spiber’s sustainability impact report, their Brewed Protein fibers use 94% less water and contribute 97% less habitat damage compared to Mongolia-origin cashmere. The report also found lower associated carbon emissions. However, the report also acknowledged an increased environmental impact in some areas compared to equivalent animal-derived products, such as electricity consumption and petroleum product usage.
Goldwin, which licenses the North Face brand in Japan, has been working with Spiber for eight years. The collaboration began with the prototype of The North Face Moon Parka, which used Spiber-produced protein material that mimicked the properties of spider silk. The companies have since solved issues such as shrinkage and successfully commercialized the Moon Parka. Goldwin aims to have 10% of its newly developed products using Brewed Protein by 2030.
While some high-profile fashion labels have successfully incorporated biotechnology materials into their product lines, the use of biotechnology is predominantly seen in luxury brands due to high production costs. However, researchers suggest that the fashion industry is on the verge of a biotechnological revolution driven by environmental concerns.
The challenge for the biotech industry lies in developing a narrative that engages consumers and attracts financial and brand support. Lack of investment currently hinders the mainstream adoption of biotech products, and efforts to support commercial development, including government involvement, are crucial.
Spiber faces the hurdle of cost in competing with traditional fabric manufacturers. The company hopes that its recently opened factories will boost production but mass production remains a challenge. They must prove that their product is commercially viable, offering a compelling alternative with sustainability and circular lifespan worth the investment.
Despite the obstacles, Spiber’s Brewed Protein fiber will be featured in the fall/winter collections of five brands in 2023: The North Face, Goldwin, Nanamica, The North Face Purple Label, and Woolrich. This demonstrates progress towards making biotechnology a staple in mainstream fashion while striving for a more sustainable future.