Loro Piana is a fashion insider favorite because it exists outside of fashion, its silhouettes unchanging despite shifts in trends and its materials made at the highest levels. Understated luxury has always been the story. But as the company makes efforts to grow, it’s adopting some of the industry’s ways. The spring 2023 collection was designed around the theme of an Italian grand tour, beginning in Piedmont and making stops in Tuscany and Portofino before ending up in the Aeolian Islands, with clothes designed for each destination.
Piedmont, Loro Piana’s homebase, yielded cold weather outwearwear: a shearling bomber, a bouclé camel hair and silk poncho, an alpaca wool coat with a subtle stripe, and a mohair, cashmere, and technical fabric coat whose weightlessness has to be felt to be believed. As the tour progressed south with the season, the clothes became more summery. A navy and yellow anorak and a shirt with rope embroidery spelling out the house logo both said “seaside,” and linen dresses like a loosely belted smock and a striped linen and cotton caftan were direct tickets to August holidays in the country. A sorbet-striped caftan in silk was a bit loud by Loro Piana standards.
Handbags are a main focus for the company. The large bale bag in a warm brown leather with white top stitching and a bucket in striped woven cotton with leather trim are two worthy investments. Loro Piana already stands apart from the sex and flash on the Milan runways, but to this insider’s eye, the best of the collection were the house icons, the unchanging “winter voyager” and “horsey short” jacket, both in cashmere; the cotton and linen “traveller”; and a bomber in water repellant microfiber. No theme, no concept, and just great.