“She is a woman who feels confident with her own vulnerabilities, unafraid to show her feelings or her weakness,” was creative director Lorenzo Serafini’s description of the person he imagines dressing. While he explored the language of rationality in previous seasons, with resort 2025 Philosophy returned to being synonymous with romance, though it’s a romance devoid of superfluous embellishments. Essential, flâneur in spirit but concrete, the collection spoke of “light and lightness.”
Practicality and wearability were emphasized throughout the day, from morning to night, with comfort enhancing femininity in both office wear and cocktail dresses. Femininity wasn’t loudly proclaimed, but was structured as a dialogue with a veiled masculinity. With a romanticization of men’s tailoring, striped cotton shirts from his wardrobe were transformed into blouses and tops with gathered or ruffled necklines, as well as into shirt dresses casually knotted at the waist. In flared pants and vests the lines were ’70s-inspired and vaguely bohemian without being nostalgic. If deconstructed and reassembled denim is a statement of what Philosophy represents, the contrasts between the fabrics reflected a multitude of identities, from satin to canvas, wool-blend stretch lace or Japanese cady, sheer and matte finishes. With its neutral palette and flowing silhouettes, the collection was fluid, and showed that frivolity needed mean a detachment from reality.