A thoughtful counter to the line’s characteristically (read: iconically) prim offerings, a cadre of punkish, mohawk-mimicking, beribboned braids at Chanel functioned as an edgy addition.
Viktor & Rolf
Though Viktor & Rolf showcased a wealth of above-neck grandeur, the pops of saccharine blush—pressed across lids before diffusing to the top of the cheekbone—proved the most noteworthy. A bonus? Also the most emulatable.
The work of makeup artist Linda Cantello, the pastel eyes at Armani were plasticine perfection, a saturated pull of cornflower blue framed by an arch of seafoam, separated discreetly by a bubblegum border.
At Fendi, an understanding of classic couture allows for an assumed reign. But this season, that archetype came replete with crafted updos, like the braided beehive expertly executed by Guido Palau.
The cat-eye is universally loved—which can only mean that it’s time to subvert it. Peter Philips traded classic black for a rich midnight blue at Dior, edging the liner along the lower lash line before finishing in an eye-extending wing.
For a beauty look worthy of Demna Gvasalia’s couture debut for Balenciaga, makeup artist Inge Grognard painted otherwise naked faces with slashes of universal eyeliner, each wet-look onyx addition tailored to the model’s features. “It felt like a gesture that was just always there,” Grognard told Vogue of the application.