The limestone and turrets that adorn the 13th-century castle of Domaine des Etangs, Auberge Resorts Collection, located in the charming village of Massignac, look like something lifted straight from a fairy tale. Its true history, however, rivals any work of fantasy. The chateau, built by the medieval knights of Chasteigner de la Roche-Posay, and surrounded by 2,500 verdant acres of land, was once the key stronghold on the road between Limoges and Angoulême. Richard the Lionheart, it is said, passed through this place (and met his end nearby).
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Courtesy of Auberge Resorts Collection
Today, however, the Domaine’s guests are more lowkey than warrior kings on horseback—discretion goes hand in hand with the secluded calm of the estate’s still lakes and rows of beech, oak, and chestnut trees that turn gold in the autumn sun. It’s fitting that a place imbued with such a strong history inspires an equally strong sense of reprieve from the stresses of modern life: The property not only offers guests the rare experience of a true retreat, but also the opportunity to fully attune to the natural world.
Despite the grandeur of the castle—and all the amenities of a luxury hotel that come with it—there remains a homely, informal atmosphere to the Domaine. Upon arrival, I was shown around by Bastien, a member of the hotel’s staff from the local community, who quickly assured me that I would be left to my own devices in enjoying the hotel’s facilities. This isn’t a place for high glamour; think more along the lines of relaxed countryside chic. The seven elegantly decorated suites inside the chateau building itself offer sumptuous settings for a romantic getaway, while the four multi-storey suites in the Longère—or ‘long house’—and the six generously spaced Metairie farmhouse cottages scattered across the property also make it a wholesome destination for families.