Any summer’s day on top of Yr Wyddfa, you might think Welsh tourism is thriving. People are lining up to touch the summit cairn, the cafe is packed, and the railway is fully booked. However, the Welsh affairs committee at Westminster recently expressed serious concerns. They pointed out that in 2019, international visitors only spent about £515m in Wales, less than 2% of the £28bn they spent throughout the UK. Upon closer examination, other troubling signs emerged: in 2022, almost 2.8 billion day trips were taken by British residents, but only 6% of them occurred in Wales, and people spent less money there compared to other parts of Britain.
For a country with such breathtaking mountain scenery and coastline, this committee report on Wales is disheartening. This is especially true since global tourism surveys consistently reveal that “natural beauty” is the main reason for visitors to come.
Rowland Rees-Evans, the chair of Mid-Wales Tourism, stated, “You have to look at the infrastructure; it is lagging behind. And then there’s a lack of communication between the tourism industry, the various marketing bodies, and the government. If we could work together, the potential is massive.”
This sentiment is echoed by others in the tourism industry. Richard Rees, who operates Celtic Deep, offering marine wildlife experiences around Pembrokeshire, said, “There’s a lack of awareness of the amazing world-class wildlife experiences we have here: from puffin colonies on Skomer Island to sightings of tuna, whales, sharks, and dolphins. There’s a huge untapped market.”
So, what are tourists missing out on in Wales?
Scenic railways:
Despite often being seen as weak, Wales actually has several remarkable railway routes. Take the Cambrian line from Shrewsbury to Aberystwyth, for example. As you travel, you’ll pass through stunning mountain scenery and may even spot ospreys nesting near Dyfi junction during the right season. The northern branch to Pwllheli offers views of several incredible coastal sights, including the Mawddach estuary and Harlech Castle. Further south, the Heart of Wales line, although underfunded and in need of improvement, is one of the world’s finest rail routes.
Suzy Davies, the chair of the Wales Tourism Alliance, said, “We have poor quality carriages and unreliable services. But the routes are magnificent.” These railway lines also connect to some of the world’s most exceptional heritage steam services, such as the Ffestiniog, Talyllyn, and the Vale of Rheidol railways. There are numerous other railway lines across Wales, from the Brecon Mountain Railway in the south to the Welsh Highland Railway in the north.
The Coastal Path:
Wales is one of the few countries with a fully operational footpath encircling the entire country. It is a true gem. Start with the 870-mile coastal route, which takes you through the wonders of the Gower, Carmarthenshire, and Pembrokeshire, but also the lesser-known seascapes of Ceredigion and Gwynedd. Follow that with the Offa’s Dyke Path, a 177-mile path through border mountains that often runs alongside, and sometimes even on, the underrated ancient monument itself. The word “dyke” does not do justice to this vast eighth-century infrastructure project. It rises to an eight-meter-high earth rampart for some stretches, cutting through lonely and isolated mountains. While there are some blocked and poorly marked paths in other areas, the coastal route and Offa’s Dyke are true triumphs.
Mountains:
Yr Wyddfa may take center stage, with everyone wanting to climb it. But just a few miles away, there are other equally spectacular peaks that remain peacefully undiscovered. Some mountains are better known than others. Tryfan and Glyder Fach offer great scrambles, while further south, there’s Cnicht and Cadair Idris, which provides wonderful views of the Irish Sea. However, these mountains can be busy compared to the hidden treasures of Cadair Berwyn, Aran Fawddwy, and Pumlumon Fawr, the highest mountain in mid-Wales and the source of both the Severn and Wye rivers. Further east, Moel Famau offers a hilltop tower. In Pembrokeshire, Foeldrygarn is home to an Iron Age hill fort and three Bronze Age cairns that were built when hieroglyphic paint was still drying inside Tutankhamun’s tomb. Access to some mountains may not always be easy, as not all have recognized summit paths, but the potential for hillwalkers is vast.
Slate:
The slate industry, which once dominated the landscape of North Wales, still lingers as a ghost in the tourism machine. Old quarries now host the fastest zip wires in the world and underground adventures like Go Below. The mines’ transport routes have been revived as heritage railways. However, real adventurers cherish these places for exploration. Climbing skills and equipment are necessary to enjoy Eryri’s Dinorwic, which has access issues. On the other hand, Llanfair near Harlech is more easily accessible. Slate was not the only mineral exploited; there are other mines open to visitors, including coal and gold. One notable site is Parys, near Amlwch on Anglesey, where you’ll find the stunning orange moonscape of a former copper mine. It was once the largest in the world and has been mined since the Bronze Age.
Welsh language and culture:
The Welsh language and culture, once seen as exclusive to fluent native speakers, is experiencing a recent shift towards inspiring interest and inclusivity. Residential courses for beginners are now available. This shift can be attributed to what some call the “Deadpool effect.” In 2020, Hollywood actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney purchased Wrexham AFC. Reynolds’s TV channel, Maximum Effort, began hosting Welsh-language programs for its US and Canadian audiences. “In a lighthearted and humble way, they’ve embraced the language,” said Davies. “It’s made a difference.” A new, younger demographic is bringing a livelier and less judgmental approach, as demonstrated by the Welsh-language channel S4C’s Gogglebocs Cymru, which welcomes all accents and levels of ability. This, along with football, has attracted American tourists to Wrexham, proving that anything is possible.