For years, French pharmacies have been a cult beauty destination—a reliable source of dermatologist-approved skincare at affordable prices. The same is true in the UK, where consumers know to snap up CeraVe and La Roche Posay at their local high-street chemists. The active ingredient flying off the shelves fastest in 2024? Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3. According to experts, its versatility is the reason more and more people are seeking it out in skincare formulas.
Below, dermatologists break down the reasons why it’s a big hitter in the beauty world.
It helps with pigmentation
Dermatologist Eduardo López Bran, director of the clinic Imema, says: “I use niacinamide— present in many anti-spot creams—as a depigmenting agent.” If you struggle with hyperpigmentation, consider a night serum that contains niacinamide. “It has a great capacity to soothe and depigment at the same time,” says dermatologist Natalia Jimenez, who calls it a “very versatile” ingredient. “There are even versions of niacinamide with retinol that are very effective for this.”
It combats sallow skin
“Niacinamide is anti-glycation,” points out skincare brand founder Marta Masi. Over time, the glycation process results in a loss of skin elasticity and dullness. According to Masi niacinamide can help to “alleviate this skin concern and give skin a healthier color. It also prevents collagen from breaking down in the glycation process,” she notes.
It promotes hydration
“It greatly improves skin hydration and [boosts] the level of ceramides, which is why people notice that their skin looks juicier and feels softer [after use],” explains Masi, who attributes the success of her own BB Cream to its niacinamide content.
It brightens and blurs
The soothing power of niacinamide is well known: it helps to blur minor imperfections and inflammations. It can also help reduce redness and combat dark circles under the eyes, and it’s suitable for sensitive skin.
How to use niacinamide:
An active ingredient, niacinamide can be effective when combined with other ingredients such as vitamin C, azelaic acid or retinol. If you’re looking to harness its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, use it in the morning, Masi says. If you’re looking to address pigmentation, she advises applying it at night in a serum.