Experience the vibrant atmosphere of the 626 Night Market in the Bay Area as smoke billows overhead. This event, which occurs twice a year, boasts a variety of Asian street food options, from bao to boba. However, the real standout is Michael Liu’s Chinese barbecue. As soon as my family and I arrived at the Alameda County Fairgrounds in May, we were immediately drawn to the golden skewers of beef, lamb, and chicken that people were clutching. These skewers were not only visually stunning, with their beautiful floral arrangement-like displays, but they also made our mouths water with their slightly charred and reddish appearance.
Amongst the booths selling ramen cups and Hello Kitty-stamped omelets, we sought out Taste Memory. Although not the longest line at the night market, which returns to Pleasanton this weekend, July 28 to 30, it was clear that the people waiting for Liu’s skewers were the ones who knew what was truly worth it. Liu, a utility engineer by day, takes his barbecue seriously, drawing from his upbringing in China’s northernmost province of Heilongjiang, where barbecue was a prominent part of the cuisine. Liu spent time studying the techniques of master grillers in various Chinese cities famous for their skewers, incorporating their secrets and his own family recipes that span 50 years.
Liu’s recipes are a blend of meticulous research and his family’s traditions. He has tested and refined his marinades over 100 times, incorporating secret spices such as red chiles. The beef and lamb are tenderized with egg whites, while the chicken features a sweet and spicy garlic sauce. Liu’s attention to detail extends to the grilling process as well, with the skewers turned at precise intervals to retain tenderness. The results are exceptional flavors: rich and juicy lamb with a hint of earthiness from cumin, tender short rib beef with fiery chile notes, and tender and flavorful garlic-spiced chicken that we couldn’t get enough of.
At Taste Memory, skewers are sold in bundles of four for $10, and they also offer seafood options like squid. Liu’s barbecue can be found at various night market events throughout California, including the flagship 626 Night Market in Arcadia and upcoming events in Berkeley and Millbrae. While Liu plans to start catering out of his commercial kitchen in October, who knows what the future holds? Maybe one day we’ll see a casual restaurant serving up Liu’s incredible skewers. No matter the reason for their popularity, Liu believes that the flavor is what truly matters. So, don’t miss out on the opportunity to experience Liu’s outstanding Chinese barbecue at the 626 Night Market in Pleasanton.