Big surf roared into Southern California on Thursday, Nov. 28, as a winter swell built up through the day –it’s expected to stick around Friday.
And another new swell is expected to arrive right behind it on Saturday with even bigger waves anticipated, creating hazardous conditions throughout the weekend, but a thrilling end for expert surfers enjoying the last waves of 2023.
Surfers test their skill in waves along the Rincon in Ventura, CA, on Thursday, Dec. 28, 2023. A high surf advisory and coastal flood advisory is in effect until 10 p.m. Saturday for all Los Angeles County beaches, including Catalina Island. According to the NWS, waves of 7 to 12 feet are expected. (Photo by David Crane, Los Angeles Daily News/SCNG)
Surfers take to the water just north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A surfer walks across a flooded beach north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Waves crash in front of beach property in the Rincon area of Ventura, CA, on Thursday, Dec. 28, 2023. A high surf advisory and coastal flood advisory is in effect..until 10 p.m. Saturday for all Los Angeles County beaches, including Catalina Island. According to the NWS, waves of 7 to 12 feet are expected. (Photo by David Crane, Los Angeles Daily News/SCNG)
A surfer walks across a flooded beach north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Surfers take to the water just north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Three surfers share a wave just north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A surfer rides a wave north of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A young beach goer plays in the water on a flooded beach south of the Newport Beach Pier in Newport Beach as large waves hit the coastline on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A surfer wipes out as waves crash into the Rincon in Ventura, CA, on Thursday, Dec. 28, 2023. A high surf advisory and coastal flood advisory is in effect..until 10 p.m. Saturday for all Los Angeles County beaches, including Catalina Island. According to the NWS, waves of 7 to 12 feet are expected. (Photo by David Crane, Los Angeles Daily News/SCNG)
Surfers flocked to beaches from San Diego to Seal Beach to the South Bay on Thursday; in some areas the punchy, strong surf reached upward 10 feet. By Saturday, waves could be in the 15- to 18-foot range in some areas, such as Huntington Beach.
In Northern California, even larger waves were slamming the coast, with big-wave surfers flocking to the famed Mavericks surf break near Santa Cruz.
Novices be warned: This isn’t the time to try out the new surfboard you got for Christmas.
Despite morning high tides, the waves were not yet big enough in the early hours Thursday to cause flooding damage in low-lying areas, but officials said they are on standby throughout the weekend.
Waves grew strong enough in Seal Beach, lifeguards closed the pier to pedestrians, with plans to reopen once it was deemed safe. Massive waves were rolling into Huntington Beach by the late afternoon, licking the bottom of the pier where spectators gathered to watch nature’s force.
Beach cities have built up sand berms as reinforcements against the battering waves to try to safeguard structures, streets and parking lots. Lifeguards up and down the coast also beefed up their staffing, calling in seasonal guards, knowing many people were still visiting or on holiday break.
“We’ve been tracking the swell, we’ll have a four-day, XXL swell period,” Huntington Beach Marine Safety Battalion Chief Trevor McDonald said.
“We’re letting surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers know it’s experts only – and even then we like them to check with lifeguards,” he said.
Guards were working hard through the morning Thursday warning people of hazards and taking preventative steps to keep people safe before they hit the water, McDonald said. In addition to big waves, strong currents were sweeping people down the beach.
“Lifeguards want people to have a great time at the beach, but the No. 1 priority is safety,” McDonald said.
In South Redondo Beach, dozens of wave watchers and photographers stood along the esplanade early Thursday as a handful of surfers battled nature.
One of those surfers — the only one in his set to stand up to a massive wave — wound up wiping out with the swell cracking his board in two.
Further south, at RAT beach, the access mat that helps those with wheelchairs get across the sand and closer to the water was buckled from the high tides.
Mark Herman, Newport Beach’s lifeguard captain, said crowds came out to ride waves north of the pier and between jetties in West Newport, where waves were in the 6- to 8-foot range by the afternoon.
He warned that in addition to big waves, strong currents were pulling laterally, so surfers and swimmers should watch nearby rock structures.
There’s also a danger of being knocked off of rock jetties and beachgoers should also stay clear of caves where they can get trapped.
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