Out in north Sunnyvale’s Moffett Park near the bay, the Tetra Hotel — one of Marriott’s distinctive Autograph Collection properties — has sprung up, along with a sister AC Hotel. And with the opening comes a stylish new restaurant, Adrestia, helmed by a longtime California chef who was born and trained in Japan. We stopped by during the first week to check it out. Here’s what we found:
THE LOOK: Sleek and airy, with angular Gabellini Sheppard-designed architecture, high ceilings and organic elements throughout the public spaces — the lobbies, restaurants and bar areas. A covered outdoor space called Nexus sits between the two hotels, offering alfresco dining options. Soon, this sculpture-filled area will be activated with wine tastings, artist events and more.
THE VIBE: The first diners inside Adrestia were Sunnyvale residents who’d been following Tetra’s construction. This space is also feeling very Silicon Valley, what with the return of tech travelers and the unmasking of Santa Clara County. On this midweek evening, the restaurant was serving a healthy complement of diners, all nicely spaced out in the 52-seat restaurant that features a communal live-edge wood table. Thanks to high ceilings and a cool soundtrack, the noise level remained a pleasant buzz and conversation was easy on our side of the room. (OK, we did overhear one of the visiting software folks utter the words “stock price.”) Other hotel guests and visitors were already filling Nokori, the expansive bar area.
THE FOOD: Look for a Japanese-inspired California menu that showcases seasonal ingredients. Executive chef Hideki Myo (Westin Tokyo, Westin St. Francis, Hyatt Fisherman’s Wharf) is a 25-year veteran of Bay Area kitchens who prides himself on balancing flavors and textures in sometimes surprising ways. The Cold-Smoked Beef Carpaccio ($24) is brushed with a whisky barrel-aged soy and served with a tea-leaf salad. The impressive, shareable whole-fish entree, Tempura Snapper (market price), pairs the crispy filets with a Korean barbecue glaze and crispy noodle salad. Myo elevates Adrestia’s burger with Wagyu beef, zesty togarashi cheese and miso aioli ($25). And crunchy cardamom streusel, frosted pistachios and a Satsuma slice add texture and interest to the silky Chai Panna Cotta ($12).
Vegetable-forward dishes include the Farro & Brussels Sprouts Risotto with elephant garlic, oven-dried tomato, crispy fennel and Taleggio cheese ($24) and Roasted Tri-Colored Carrots, tossed with avocado, blood orange and crunchy sprouted seeds ($17).
Near the dining room, the hotel’s Coffee Manufactory cafe offers drinks made with sustainably sourced beans from that Oakland-based roaster; grab-and-go sandwiches like katsu ($11) or egg salad ($6) on milk bread; and artisan chocolates from Deux Cranes of Los Gatos. Coming soon: Tartine Manufactory pastries.
THE SIPS: Japanese whiskies, including some rare and high-end bottles, star at Tetra’s Nokori bar. An innovative Suntory highball machine dispenses Japanese highballs in what’s been determined to be the perfect whisky-to-soda water ratio. Besides the Classic with Suntory Toki ($13), there are intriguing variations such as the Remon Highball with frozen lemon ($15) and the Dram & Grain, Nikka Days whisky with apple soda ($21). A non-alcoholic Chowa Highball ($12) mixes matcha syrup, soda water and peach bitters.
DON’T MISS: If you love lobster rolls, venture out of your Maine/Connecticut-style comfort zone and order chef Myo’s umami-packed Mini Grilled Lobster Sando ($20). The furikake-dusted milk bread is filled with lobster and laced with togarashi-spiced cheese and bechamel, with miso aioli on the side. It’s small but very rich, perfect for a shared appetizer or a small meal.
DISCUSS AMONG YOURSELVES: The massive acrylic sculpture by artist John Burtle on the Adrestia wall is called “He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not.” Look closely and you’ll see it resembles a steel-hued flower. Will the object of desire be gone by the time the lovelorn finishes plucking off the hundreds of imaginary petals?
GOOD TO KNOW: VTA’s light-rail orange line runs along Java Drive right outside the hotel, so it’s a quick trip from the Borregas Station a block away to Levi’s Stadium for concerts and football games. If you drive here for a meal, there’s free validated parking.
DETAILS: Open daily for dinner (5-10 p.m.), with breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch coming at the beginning of April. 400 W. Java Drive, Sunnyvale. www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/sjcva-tetra-hotel-autograph-collection/dining/