Since she’s something of a history buff, it’s always a pleasure to see which corner of the past Jenny Packham has been diving into. This time around, she’d been watching documentaries and reading up on the glamour and scandal surrounding Truman Capote’s “swans,” the high-society women whose jam-packed social calendars were matched only by the supreme elegance of their wardrobes. If there could ever be a better jumping-off point for Packham—herself a beloved go-to for whatever the equivalent of the swans might be today—it would be a struggle to think of it.
When translating that energy into clothes, Packham honed in on the infamous Black and White Ball of 1966. “I wish I could have done the whole collection in white, but I’d probably put us out of business,” Packham said jokingly. “But we took inspiration from the beading of some of those dresses, and tried to capture the spirit of that event.” The collection might have started in the ’60s, but there was a touch of Studio 54 disco fever in the mix too, whether in the Cher-worthy flamboyance of a bedazzled gold and pewter gown, the eye-popping sparkle of the dresses dripping in bugle beads, or the swishy pleats and billowing sleeves that came in featherlight chiffon or bedecked with—you guessed it—sequins. At the same time, there was plenty for the more buttoned-up of Packham’s modern swan clientele here, with a handful of flattering, formfitting gowns in black and powder-pink crepe. Packham’s offering this season carried all her usual beau monde elegance but came with a welcome dose of something a little brasher and more confident.
Packham also has a knack for a well-timed homage, and her glittering ode to the high-society swans will arrive in stores just in time for the release of Ryan Murphy’s new season of Feud. The show’s latest iteration will focus on the fallout from the salacious book extract Capote published in Esquire that mocked the swans and saw them turn on him, and will feature a star-studded cast that includes Naomi Watts, Chloë Sevigny, and Demi Moore. If they’re looking for a knockout red carpet dress for any of the premieres (pending a resolution to the actor’s strike), their stylists should know exactly where to turn.