Fragrance is the most personal of beauty notes. It’s inextricably tied to memory and emotion, and that extends to the public, wafting through our environs and up the noses of passersby. Perfume’s ability to leave an impression helps explain why the fragrance space is booming, with new olfactory concepts and dedicated influencers pushing perfume past any previous boundaries.
“My perfume is my daily reassurance, a kind of olfactory ‘comforter’ that makes me feel good,” says Givaudan’s head of global marketing, Arnaud Guggenbuhl. This sentiment, along with perfume’s individual, luxurious, and accessible nature, make for perfect a social storm: According to Guggenbuhl, TikTok’s perfume enthusiasts drive 13% of fragrance purchasing in the US. “I foresee fragrance consumption evolving into a more direct medium for self-care through self-expression,” says Brianna Arps, founder and CEO of Moodeaux. “Rather than wearing our favorite scents just to feel something, those who indulge (especially zillennials) will reach for a fragrance to ‘accessorize’ their feelings instead.”
Spring’s perfume-scape promises notes of banana (yes, banana), scents inspired by the sun, and much, much more. It also asks you to think outside of the box—and sniff the rewards of your rebellion. “Consumers are ready to take risks and smell something a little less expected, which is exciting,” says Future Society’s director of product development, Christina Baio. To broaden your scent scope and style, Baio recommends perusing Fragrantica, an online fragrance compendium and community that encourages users to research resonant notes and accords. And while the identity that comes with a signature scent will always pack appeal, the expanding fragrance space leaves plenty of room to build what creators like Baio and Arps call a ‘fragrance wardrobe.’ “I don’t believe in having a signature fragrance,” says Chriselle Lim, owner and creative director of Phlur. “Choosing perfume is like choosing an outfit for the day.”
Here are six of 2024’s biggest trends in fragrance to help inspire the curation of your perfume closet.
Solar Notes
Solar scents are all about the warmth, with fragrance profile designed to echo the feeling of a sun-drenched day. Included notes often come down to bright and fresh florals (Guggenbuhl cites “radiant” ylang-ylang for its luminosity) and warm nostalgics (think vanilla or beach-bound coconut). Spritz on Dedcool Sunlit Blooms or Issey Miyake’s L’Eau D’Issey Solar Violet for a transportive, brilliant experience.
Savory Gourmands
Popcorn, pistachios, pastries—the new guard of food-inspired scents is a savory one. “Unlike launches from previous years, a lot of new age, savory gourmands come blended with unexpected notes like roasted nuts (pistachio), spirits, coffee, and exotic spices, for example,” says Arps. Coffee features in Chris Collins Sweet Taboo, while Vacation’s After Sun offers a post-sun cocktail of bitter, juniper-led gin. Lim reaches for Rital Date by Versatile Paris for an ultimate embodiment of the trend. “Instead of it going in a sticky sweet direction, it smells like pistachios on a table of a bunch of other savory Italian foods, like bread, pesto, and olive oil,” she says. Guggenbuhl suggests considering meringue’s light appeal along with savories wrapped in the season’s solars. “These savory, airy, gourmand notes are often twisted with solar notes to create a sundazed contrast, almost salty, that helps sweetness to radiate even more,” he says.
Smokey Ouds
Oud—a deep, woodsy, and very fragrant oil extracted from tree resin—is one of the year’s major players. “Due to the strong impact of Middle Eastern fragrances and their popularity on TikTok, Oud is definitively a hero ingredient that occidental brands are reinterpreting—less animalic but enhancing its smoky leathery woody character,” says Guggenbuhl. The new Hermessence Oud Alezan by Hermès is inspired by horses, and it showcases the resinous scent sans distractions. Tom Ford’s new edition of Oud Wood (which originally dropped in 2007) releases this spring to much anticipation.
Milky Textures
Milky, lactonic textures continue to bring a note of creamy comfort to the 2024 scent scene with an accompanying sense of indulgence and comfort. “Think almond milk, an ingredient to create enveloping, velvety, and opulent delight,” says Guggenbuhl, who adds that milky notes can be treated through sandalwood and musks to create a “second-skin” sensation. Like your favorite cashmere, milky fragrances are sophisticated, sumptuous, and soft. “They evoke an emotional response and smell familiar and cozy—and perhaps even nostalgic,” says Baio. “Wearing one of these has the same effect as wearing your security blanket—it’s the same texture in an olfactive experience.” With floral notes and a warm almond milk accord, Issey Miyake’s A Drop D’Issey offers a worthwhile starting point.
New Fruits
Unexpected fruits feature (and play up our want of milky finishes), while tried-and-trues get a twist. To begin, look for banana. “It’s the fruit that pairs the best with jasmine notes—it brings fun, creaminess, and a touch of green vibrancy,” says Guggenbuhl, referencing Marc Jacobs’s new Daisy Wild Eau de Parfum. “The other ‘It fruit’ is mango, thanks to its pulpiness and lactonic facet, it brings a comforting escapism feeling.” Citrus notes will come candied or expressed through ginger, and fresh scents come treated with bitter rhubarb or fruity lychee accents.
Scent Layering
Layering items from your fragrance wardrobe is not only allowed, it’s encouraged—and it’s not limited to perfume alone. “Layering fragrances is my number one hack for smelling delicious all day long,” says Arps. “It’s also a dope way to expand your nose by creating new combos and pairings that often can’t be bought.” Aprs starts her multitiered approach in the shower with scented body washes, followed by lotions, oils, and a perfume topper. And considering that luxe fragrance brands are expanding into the detergent space—Francis Kurkdjian boasts a line of fabric care, and Snif’s Sweet Ash Everything Wash brings a best-selling scent to your laundry room—your clothes can be part of your scent profile too.