When Chinese American food historian, film producer, and former New York Times writer Jennifer 8. Lee recommends Dumpling Home in Hayes Valley as her favorite place for dumplings in San Francisco, it’s worth paying attention. The restaurant, located on Gough Street, already has a line forming before it opens for lunch at 11:30 a.m. despite only opening in the fall of 2020. Once inside, I spot Lee herself entering the dining room. She carries a stuffed smiling dumpling plushie and wears a matching enamel pin from A Jar of Pickles, owned by her friend’s sister.
Meeting Lee is a thrill for me. Her book “The Fortune Cookie Chronicles: Adventures in the World of Chinese Food” (Twelve, 2008) opened my eyes to the historical significance of Chinese American food like orange chicken and chop suey. It also shed light on issues such as the plight of undocumented and underpaid service workers in the Chinese American food industry. This book influenced both my cultural identity and my food writing, paving the way for a new generation of food writers to explore how diaspora and location impact the evolution of a cuisine.
In addition to her work as a writer, Lee has also found a love for film producing after co-producing the documentary adaptation of her book, “The Search for General Tso.” She is currently involved in other projects such as an AI literature website called Writing Atlas and an MITeen Press book called “The Hanmoji Handbook,” which uses emojis to teach Han Chinese characters.
But Lee’s interest in dumplings goes beyond academia. She shares her own unique recipe, which incorporates ground turkey instead of the more traditionally used ground pork. As she explains, growing up in New York City, ground pork was not readily available in American supermarkets, but ground beef and turkey were. Lee adapted Chinese techniques to create her own American version of dumplings. She also includes lettuce and ketchup in her filling for added flavors.
When it comes to cooking techniques, Lee prefers frying over steaming, finding it more celebratory. She often hosts dumpling parties at festivals where her films are screened and can make hundreds, and sometimes even thousands, of dumplings. Her homemade dipping sauces range from classic soy sauce-vinegar to unique combinations like bourbon and maple.
The owner of Dumpling Home, Jimmy Shen, can relate to Lee’s exploration of Chinese American flavors. In a phone interview, he describes his restaurant’s food as “80% Chinese and 20% American.” Shen himself is from Canton in southern China, a region not known for certain types of dumplings like xiao long bao. However, he has worked in various San Francisco restaurants since he was 16 years old, including running the popular Japanese restaurant Otoro Sushi in Hayes Valley.
Dumpling Home’s success is attributed to Shen’s experience, research, and dedication to creating unique dishes. He sampled dumplings from all over the Bay Area and collaborated with his chefs to develop recipes that suit his own taste. The restaurant’s name reflects its mission of making customers feel at home. Shen recently opened Dumpling Story in Pacific Heights, which follows the same naming convention. Both locations have become popular destinations for dumpling lovers in the city.
One of Lee’s favorite items at Dumpling Home is the juicy pork bao, a Shanghai-style pan-fried bun with a crunchy bottom and a soft, chewy steamed dough filled with seasoned ground pork. The presentation of Dumpling Home’s version is distinct, with a taller, slimmer appearance and higher sides compared to others. The restaurant’s xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, are also a must-try, with unique flour mixtures that result in thin yet sturdy skins. Other dishes ordered at Dumpling Home include cold jellyfish salad, dry-fried ginger-and-green onion noodles, stir-fried okra with fresh garlic sauce, boiled shrimp-egg-chive-mushroom dumplings, and boiled pork dumplings with sesame sauce and house-made red chili oil.
Following the success of Dumpling Home, Shen opened Dumpling Story on Fillmore Street, offering a slightly different menu with additions like kung pao chicken and Mongolian beef dumplings. He also introduced a savory-sweet dessert called lava egg yolk bao, which bears resemblance to the pan-fried juicy pork bao. Time will tell if these new items will make their way to Dumpling Home’s menu.
Shen believes that attention to detail is what sets his restaurants apart. Each dish has been carefully adjusted and crafted to create a unique experience for diners. Dumpling Home stands out among the many dumpling restaurants in the city, offering a warm and inviting atmosphere and delicious food that keeps customers coming back for more.
Dumpling Home is located at 298 Gough St., San Francisco. It is open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8:15 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8:45 p.m.